Looks cool!
1) When you womp the big circle out of the middle plate, you reduce it's stiffness a bit. Do you think it still will be good enough to keep the screws all in line?
2) You can print the part the rides on the arm so the pivot point is a bit higher. That *may* give you more run length on the drive screw. Unless you intend to drive the top into the upper plate that would reduce the value of dropping the plate. Are you driving into the upper plate?
3) You could terminate either end of the build plate adjuster into a T nut (they work well in plywood). That would eliminate one of the adjuster nuts and it's clearance issues. Issues? They normally come in coarse thread so that could be an issue.
4) You can drop the point the arms hit the effector. That will (net) raise the bottom of the hot end relative to everything else. At some point the bottom of the arms hit the printed object. Put another way - bottom of level arms = tip of hot end = optimum. If you do this does dropping the build plate still pay off?
1) When you womp the big circle out of the middle plate, you reduce it's stiffness a bit. Do you think it still will be good enough to keep the screws all in line?
2) You can print the part the rides on the arm so the pivot point is a bit higher. That *may* give you more run length on the drive screw. Unless you intend to drive the top into the upper plate that would reduce the value of dropping the plate. Are you driving into the upper plate?
3) You could terminate either end of the build plate adjuster into a T nut (they work well in plywood). That would eliminate one of the adjuster nuts and it's clearance issues. Issues? They normally come in coarse thread so that could be an issue.
4) You can drop the point the arms hit the effector. That will (net) raise the bottom of the hot end relative to everything else. At some point the bottom of the arms hit the printed object. Put another way - bottom of level arms = tip of hot end = optimum. If you do this does dropping the build plate still pay off?