Nice arms!
I don't understand this sentence.
I do understand goals.
The shaft should be a press fit into the bearings, and into the shoulder, that should retain it.
To save weight use aluminum tubing for the shaft, or drill out the shaft.
I'm not sure what your shoulder joint looks like.
If for what ever reason you are concerned with the shaft working it's way out of the shoulder joint, pin it.
Or flange/flair the ends of the tube with a pipe flanging tool, you'll want to locate the bearing pocket facing outwards,
right now you have them facing inwards.
You could trade the ball bearings for thin wall bushings to reduce the weight.
To resize tubing swage the I.D. with an appropriate sized ball bearing use lubricant, kerosene.
If the bearings are loose, glue them, or heat stake them.
Quote
Dannydefe
I'm not sure if the first photo with shoulders step for the Bearings race might perform better than just straight aluminum plug which is press-fit into the shoulder.
I don't understand this sentence.
Quote
Dannydefe
My goal is reduced weight, zero play and to reduce the width of the shoulder joint so that it doesn't interfere with my carbon corner supports.
I do understand goals.
The shaft should be a press fit into the bearings, and into the shoulder, that should retain it.
To save weight use aluminum tubing for the shaft, or drill out the shaft.
I'm not sure what your shoulder joint looks like.
If for what ever reason you are concerned with the shaft working it's way out of the shoulder joint, pin it.
Or flange/flair the ends of the tube with a pipe flanging tool, you'll want to locate the bearing pocket facing outwards,
right now you have them facing inwards.
You could trade the ball bearings for thin wall bushings to reduce the weight.
To resize tubing swage the I.D. with an appropriate sized ball bearing use lubricant, kerosene.
If the bearings are loose, glue them, or heat stake them.