Hi Guys
I've not had any issues with a 'dirty' hotend since I swapped out the Jhead for the E3D. As soon as I have the new hotend probe up and running I'll post a report and some pictures. As far as swapping effectors/hotends goes I do it all the time. I have come up with a plug and socket arrangement for the heater, thermistor, part cooling fan, E3D cooling fan, LED ring and now the Z probe microswitch. I'm beginning to wonder if there is anything else I can hang on there!!! I invested a while ago in a set of molex crimps (£25 off ebay) they allow me to just crimp connectors on. I currently have 3, 3 pin connectors for all of the above. The biggest issue with changing an effector is heating up the hotend to be able to pull the bowden tube out and not burning my fingers in the process ;). I'm fairly sure if I looked closely at the Rumba schematics I could get the cable count down by sharing gnd connections but so far I having had a problem as I put a few spare cores in when I built the machine.
As far as print quality goes it's like all other machines, speed and temperature. I currently run 80mm/s on both PLA and ABS and 190 for PLA, 230 for ABS. Since I added the Mk2 heated bed I run that at 70 and 110 respectively. The borosilicate glass (£5 for a 200mm square 3mm thick from ebay - china, and included postage, how do they do it???) things are a lot easier as all i do is unclip the glass at the end of the print and parts just pop off when it cools. PLA doesn't need anything but bare, clean glass. ABS, I use a Pritt stick. so far so good and print quality is better than my Huxley at 30mm/s. The E3D nozzle is 0.4 and I normally print at 0.2 layer height.
I also have started using Cura. It's great as there's not much that you get tempted to fiddle with and it slices in a flash. Still use Repetier Host if I want to 'talk' to the machine as I much prefer it's interface.
One issue that's cropped up this week is that the rotary switch on my RRD smart controller is playing up. It feels different and to get a click takes two or three goes and I normally have to pull up a bit before I push down. Anyone know if you can get a replacement?
Regards
Andy
I've not had any issues with a 'dirty' hotend since I swapped out the Jhead for the E3D. As soon as I have the new hotend probe up and running I'll post a report and some pictures. As far as swapping effectors/hotends goes I do it all the time. I have come up with a plug and socket arrangement for the heater, thermistor, part cooling fan, E3D cooling fan, LED ring and now the Z probe microswitch. I'm beginning to wonder if there is anything else I can hang on there!!! I invested a while ago in a set of molex crimps (£25 off ebay) they allow me to just crimp connectors on. I currently have 3, 3 pin connectors for all of the above. The biggest issue with changing an effector is heating up the hotend to be able to pull the bowden tube out and not burning my fingers in the process ;). I'm fairly sure if I looked closely at the Rumba schematics I could get the cable count down by sharing gnd connections but so far I having had a problem as I put a few spare cores in when I built the machine.
As far as print quality goes it's like all other machines, speed and temperature. I currently run 80mm/s on both PLA and ABS and 190 for PLA, 230 for ABS. Since I added the Mk2 heated bed I run that at 70 and 110 respectively. The borosilicate glass (£5 for a 200mm square 3mm thick from ebay - china, and included postage, how do they do it???) things are a lot easier as all i do is unclip the glass at the end of the print and parts just pop off when it cools. PLA doesn't need anything but bare, clean glass. ABS, I use a Pritt stick. so far so good and print quality is better than my Huxley at 30mm/s. The E3D nozzle is 0.4 and I normally print at 0.2 layer height.
I also have started using Cura. It's great as there's not much that you get tempted to fiddle with and it slices in a flash. Still use Repetier Host if I want to 'talk' to the machine as I much prefer it's interface.
One issue that's cropped up this week is that the rotary switch on my RRD smart controller is playing up. It feels different and to get a click takes two or three goes and I normally have to pull up a bit before I push down. Anyone know if you can get a replacement?
Regards
Andy