I am building a rostock and can say that if done properly the rostock is a very capable design even with 8mm rods, the next one I build may have 6mm rods in it to reduce friction, as for the rod quality, I have not done this however putting polishing compound on a rag and spinning it with a drill should smooth just about any rod out. I find most of the noise comes from the fact that the rails flex while the printer moves, creating a sturdy casing for this printer solves the issues. I experimented with just placing the rods and moving the sliders as fast as possible then I put them under stretch, they quieted down so much so that the only thing I can really hear is the servos moving. I have put my full body weight on my printer so far and it does not effect the rods at all, jokingly refering to this printer as if it fails I can always re-purpose it as a bar stool. The one thing that every rostock design lacks is the ability to stretch the rods when mounted. They all either place the rods in or have the rods as part of the structure. The rods should be treated as a carrier and nothing more, once stretche by a small amount they fall within specs. My design is up-scaled quite a bit expecting at least 450-550mm of build height and probably around 350mm cylinder in it. I am still in the early stages, taking a step back and ordering new longer rods and traxxas joints for my build just last night. Removing lash from the printer seems to be the biggest challenge and so far the only system I like is the ball joint route. The magnetic joints I am not particularly fond of. I have taken to calling my printer TUKI, for one reason or another.
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