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Re: Question about making a delta 3d printer taller.

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Your printer looks good, but some of what you did is major overkill, other places you kind of short changed yourself. I'm not trying to pick it apart, just trying to help you avoid some of the problems others and myself have had and where you are headed.

I like your server PSU idea, much better than a normal ATX.
It's hard to tell from the pictures, but it looks like you used 16ga wire for your bed, you want 14ga. or you will handicap your bed. That may be a good thing considering your plans for the glass.

Ditch the universal joints from the Rostock kit. Buy some Traxxas ball joints and some sort of rods (I used Oak doweling and set screws, later garden stakes, and carbon). If you see slop, use rubber bands to pre-tension them. You may also be temped by magnetic joints, personally, I hate them. They chattered at speed and threatened to fly off. Low slop, but they are expensive and their weight limits speeds. Some swear by them. Most however agree, the universal joint arms are a pain in the neck, so much so that there is even a nickname for it, the Delta Arm Blues.

Don't build the head as pictured with Kapton tape wrapped half way up it, the black needs to be exposed for cooling purposes. I know one person with one of those heads, he says it works okay. That manufacturer can be iffy in the best of times, they also made your Ramps and lcd and you can probably see the quality just oozing from those. If it all works, great! Oh... The heated bed mosfet on the ramps REQUIRES a heat sink, even with one, and a cooling fan, it may overheat and shut off, and after a while of doing this, it will probably blow out. The heated bed mosfet is the one that sits parallel to the terminal block. I've killed two.

The idler bearings are problematic for some, there was a double sheer upper bearing mount on Thingiverse, but it's been removed and I don't have a copy of it.

Grind flat spots on your motor shafts for the sets screws, and use Loctite.

Overhanging your glass from the heated bed, doesn't matter how well you insulate it, if you use something other than Borosilicate, it will crack in a relatively short time. Normal glass doesn't like being unevenly heated or cooled. Your plan only slightly delays the inevitable. Even when fully heated, normal glass is prone to breaking, mine lasted a few months. I could be wrong, but I wouldn't expect it to last. $30 or so will get you a custom one from China.

Drill rod is not the same as ground, hardened, polished and plated, sorry, it's not. The Rostock Wiki page mentions them specifically because so many have had problems. Yes, bending can contribute to the wear, however, it depends on the type of bearing used. The ones you are using, are much more prone to digging into a rod, partly by design, but made far worse by being cheap Chinese bearings. You are making all the classic mistakes here and repeating the same phrases said by those who later fell victim. These, these, or these can help, but may not be a perfect solution.



Lastly, I think you both over and under estimate the amount of effort it takes to maintain some of these machines and the costs. You go through all this effort to avoid extrusions and then rely on wood and manual labor to keep it all aligned, together and running smooth. One reason we all tried to get away from wood was because it can warp, or in your case, crack, especially with the way you are loading it. This may not be a huge concern unless you live in a high humidity region like I do, but you already have cracks. You may get lucky, or it may split in half in 3 months.

V-slot is CHEAP, even at long lengths and larger sizes, and I don't have any exposed grease, nor has the system needed any maintenance. Okay, I had to pull bits of filament out of a belt pulley once. It's also quiet. My Griffin are the quietest printers I've come across, and get comments on their lack of noise wherever they go. Far quieter than My Rostock which could be heard in other rooms under hard use (the dampeners you got will help). My real maintenance has been trying to get the extruder to keep up with the printer, otherwise, I don't really do any maintenance. V-slot gets even more cheap when you add in the cost of good linear bearings, which are ridiculously expensive.


Oh, if you shrink the pictures on your site, it will load a TON faster. You used full size pictures, then used HTML to reduce them. You are probably using 80% more bandwidth than you need.

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