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jaguarking11
As for the wood, well as you pointed it out its not exactly the best material, however this is a work in progress. I am planing on a upgrade to steel or aluminum ends for the printer at some point. However at this point the wood only has to live for a few prints. The wood deceives you however, it is not cracked aywhere, I splintered some of the edges when machining it with my limited hand tools. If it does crack then as mentioned I will be ordering some precision parts to replace it.
The bearings, its funny my parts were delivered with nylon bearings which I did not use, I would rather use the metal bearings right now. At some point if wear becomes an issue, I will upgrade the system.
As for the heated bed, it is a good point on borosilicate glass. I may eventually go that route, or may use stainless steel. For now this was a decent solution that did not involve me waiting 3 or 4 weeks to get.
I've been working with wood since I was a child, I'm not deceived by the wood cracking, I know it's from you working with it, but as an engineer you should know about stress concentration or stress risers. You just created a bunch, and right in a bad spot...
Ever see people breaking boards with their hands, they break it along the grain, and it's actually pathetically easy to do. As kids, in woodshop we used to do it with our heads, once in a while, someone would convince one of the new kids to try it, but turn the grain sideways and watch them give themselves a nice headache. Take a look at this picture, you are straddling the grain right where you apply your force. Not just once, in the front, but also in back, through the same section of grain, right where your stress risers are. Short of hitting it with something, you are doing all you can to break it.
Once wear becomes an issue, changing the bearings isn't going to help. The damage is already done. That was why they shipped the rods with those bearings, because they know normal ones will utterly destroy them in short order. Again, this is a classic mistake, and you're saying the same things everyone else did before they had problems.
Any heated metal bed, will warp, quickly. I've heard of Makerbot beds bending several mm.
Go the way you want, but you will be redoing a lot, and while you think it's not a big deal, you might once you realize it can take 6 -10 hours to calibrate a delta, every time you make a significant change. Which pretty much means everything on a delta short of a belt or pulley change.
I'll PM you regarding your pictures as it goes way off topic.