As Grat said, In the configuration.h, you need to change steps per mm from 44(?) to 80 steps per mm.
The more steps per mm, the higher your print resolution.
Belts will need to be shortened a tad (a few mm probably), but can be re-used, that's not a problem.
Yes, that is the paper gap. And while it should be done hot, it's not a huge deal. You do want the bed heated though. I recommend a sample print to do final calibration on head height regardless of how well you think you did the paper gap. Different surfaces often need more or less pressure and heat to stick.
You're welcome, and good luck guys. :)
The more steps per mm, the higher your print resolution.
36t will give you speed, not precision. A 20t is more than fast enough, but adds precision.Quote
Kurzaa
I was confused at first about the pulleys too, you would think 36T is better than 20T. Was wondering how that improves the "resolution" though and if the belts would need to be changed also or if they could be reused.
When you say that the nozzle is actually 0.1mm above the bed surface, you are referring to the paper gap set when calibrating? Does it matter if the hotend is heated or not?
Belts will need to be shortened a tad (a few mm probably), but can be re-used, that's not a problem.
Yes, that is the paper gap. And while it should be done hot, it's not a huge deal. You do want the bed heated though. I recommend a sample print to do final calibration on head height regardless of how well you think you did the paper gap. Different surfaces often need more or less pressure and heat to stick.
You're welcome, and good luck guys. :)