Thanks for the info, Nick! Got the latest Inventor downloaded and the assembly looks great. I used to do all my designs and Inventor and teach it to FIRST groups back in '02 and '03, and after spending time with OpenSCAD lately I'm tempted to go back to Inventor for the more complex stuff.
Questions here plus more questions inline:
- Is there a place with a bunch of pictures of assembled Simpsons? I recall seeing ones from MF NY but I can't seem to find them now. Trying to understand the wiring process.
- Are any more basalt beds available? If not available pre-cut, do you have any supplier links?
- What is your preferred "1/2" Flatstock" material for the top and bottom?
I see now, the peg drops in. There's definitely room to minimize this (which I'm sure you know, but I'll list some ideas before making the mods):
- The distance from guitar tuner rotation axis to the start of the curved portion on the guitar tuner body that the faces the large bridge on motor_arm is ~7mm; the bridge is 30mm. So you could curve the edges and reduce the bridge size by about half.
- You could further reduce the need for a full bridge by inserting the guitar tuner twisted 90 degrees to its final placement so that the peg rotation axis is parallel to the long side of the motor arm, which would give a bit of extra space.
- Actually, is any of this needed? If you insert the tip of the peg twisted into the counterbored hole in motor_arm at a slight angle, with the half-cylindrical side first, then rotate it, you would need much less height on the motor arm. Anyone with a printed motor_arm, is this feasible? How much extra height does this get you? If it's ~7.5mm, then simple 45 degree edges may be sufficient to eliminate the bridge; the counterbore for the thicker cylinder on the tuning peg is 11mm deep.
I now see the sunken chamfer on all 3 hub pieces, so I see how to print those (chamfer down).
But on the shoulder, I don't see a way to print cleanly without support. You could add another sunken chamfer and print it vertically, but printing flat would of course be faster. If I print it with the longest flat side down, then the counterbores for the 608s are likely to deform at the top where the overhangs become extreme, plus on the far edge counterbore that is on the very bottom when assembled. Do you add any supports? Maybe you've got sufficient cooling to exceed 45 degree overhangs? Maybe the heating process to press in the bearing tends to hide any imperfections in this area. Thoughts?
Thanks! All SkyDelta development is on hold until I get a running Simpson... much cooler. More inertia, but not needing careful spring choices or needing to compensate for idler wrap will be nice.
Questions here plus more questions inline:
- Is there a place with a bunch of pictures of assembled Simpsons? I recall seeing ones from MF NY but I can't seem to find them now. Trying to understand the wiring process.
- Are any more basalt beds available? If not available pre-cut, do you have any supplier links?
- What is your preferred "1/2" Flatstock" material for the top and bottom?
Not hot end; was wondering about the extruder. I see the answer in the BOM now - MBE extruder. Can't believe this thing is bearingless - has to add drag.Quote
nicholas.seward
Ubis is what I use.
Quote
nicholas.seward
I want to eliminate that bridge. I will work to minimize it but I have to have access for the tuning peg. Even if you bridge poorly it has many layers before you get to a mechanically critical part.
I see now, the peg drops in. There's definitely room to minimize this (which I'm sure you know, but I'll list some ideas before making the mods):
- The distance from guitar tuner rotation axis to the start of the curved portion on the guitar tuner body that the faces the large bridge on motor_arm is ~7mm; the bridge is 30mm. So you could curve the edges and reduce the bridge size by about half.
- You could further reduce the need for a full bridge by inserting the guitar tuner twisted 90 degrees to its final placement so that the peg rotation axis is parallel to the long side of the motor arm, which would give a bit of extra space.
- Actually, is any of this needed? If you insert the tip of the peg twisted into the counterbored hole in motor_arm at a slight angle, with the half-cylindrical side first, then rotate it, you would need much less height on the motor arm. Anyone with a printed motor_arm, is this feasible? How much extra height does this get you? If it's ~7.5mm, then simple 45 degree edges may be sufficient to eliminate the bridge; the counterbore for the thicker cylinder on the tuning peg is 11mm deep.
Quote
nicholas.seward
What parts are you refering to when you talk about 608 overhanges? Everything should be printable but something may have slipped by.
I now see the sunken chamfer on all 3 hub pieces, so I see how to print those (chamfer down).
But on the shoulder, I don't see a way to print cleanly without support. You could add another sunken chamfer and print it vertically, but printing flat would of course be faster. If I print it with the longest flat side down, then the counterbores for the 608s are likely to deform at the top where the overhangs become extreme, plus on the far edge counterbore that is on the very bottom when assembled. Do you add any supports? Maybe you've got sufficient cooling to exceed 45 degree overhangs? Maybe the heating process to press in the bearing tends to hide any imperfections in this area. Thoughts?
Thanks! All SkyDelta development is on hold until I get a running Simpson... much cooler. More inertia, but not needing careful spring choices or needing to compensate for idler wrap will be nice.