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AndyCart
I'm sure someone much brighter than me will find a way and then ...
Cherry Pi III (:P)
I'm putting my money on you figuring it out before they do. Would the sensors read properly if you bonded standoffs to the glass, attached the heatbed to the standoffs with a cork insulator below, and stacked a second piece of glass on top as your heated print surface? I would think that it should be an adequate thermal break, if overheating the sensors is the concern.....
I'm sure there are numerous ways to achieve FSR with a heated bed. I've already looked at a couple on the Google groups delta forum. A guy called Wing on there has done a fantastic job producing some code for a tiny arduino board that sorts out the major problem with FSR which is balancing the don't trigger with the weight of the bed/trigger when required without too much force from the hotend issue. I plan to have a look at this soon. The truth is I much prefer printing with PLA and don't really have much need, personally, for using a heat bed. That said my Huxley and the original Cherry Pi both have one. The only CPII part in ABS is the effector plate as it's very close to the hotend and it didn't want it melting. I have actually managed to get ABS to stick to my mirror build plate with no heat using a glue stick but I admit it's much easier on a heat bed.
Watch this space ;)
I'm also working on a carriage design using printed 'bearings' rather than the, current, 6 x 623 bearings per slide. That's looking really promising.
Andy