Many of those listed on that page aren't even 3d printers, they are delta robots. Those designs are extremely complex, fickle in nature, and often costly. Soem require more poerfull motors, which means electronics will be difficult, change the electronics and you need new firmware, which means writing your own delta code since only some boards are compatible.
The first practical, home 3d delta printer was the Rostock, which itself is pretty dated. The Rostock slides worked well, but you had to invest in some expensive slides and bearings to make it work optimally (same with the 3DR and original Kossel Mini designs), and the wood and mounting systems often led to calibration problems anytime you moved it or the humidity changed. All of which were why people have moved on from it.
The delta style 3d printer is relatively new, especially when compared with cartesians, so there was a lot of frantic early development, much of which wasn't practical or reliable. Things have sort of stablized at this point and we have a few good designs to pick from. Most people (including myself) recomend something without wood, and a bit more sturdy. My advice, build it as stiff and strong as you can, the stiffer it is, the faster and more reliable it will be. Also, figure out the largest size you realistically need, the larger it is, the slower it will be.
As for current deltas, the Kossel Mini (and slight re-designs), 3DR, Cerberus Pup, and if you live in the St. Louis area, the Griffin. There are more, but those are the designs I see or mentioned most. Most development lately has been in the form of sensors/sensing, force resistance sensors and auto calibration. For some fresh designs however, check out what Nicholas Seward is doing. I don't expect his designs to overtake the Kossel Mini as the dominant delta printer, but his designs are awesome.
The first practical, home 3d delta printer was the Rostock, which itself is pretty dated. The Rostock slides worked well, but you had to invest in some expensive slides and bearings to make it work optimally (same with the 3DR and original Kossel Mini designs), and the wood and mounting systems often led to calibration problems anytime you moved it or the humidity changed. All of which were why people have moved on from it.
The delta style 3d printer is relatively new, especially when compared with cartesians, so there was a lot of frantic early development, much of which wasn't practical or reliable. Things have sort of stablized at this point and we have a few good designs to pick from. Most people (including myself) recomend something without wood, and a bit more sturdy. My advice, build it as stiff and strong as you can, the stiffer it is, the faster and more reliable it will be. Also, figure out the largest size you realistically need, the larger it is, the slower it will be.
As for current deltas, the Kossel Mini (and slight re-designs), 3DR, Cerberus Pup, and if you live in the St. Louis area, the Griffin. There are more, but those are the designs I see or mentioned most. Most development lately has been in the form of sensors/sensing, force resistance sensors and auto calibration. For some fresh designs however, check out what Nicholas Seward is doing. I don't expect his designs to overtake the Kossel Mini as the dominant delta printer, but his designs are awesome.