Ok,
The outer wall of the barrel of the flange nut to the high point in the thread is ~ 0.160". That's going by what I can measure on one sample with a dial caliper. (you might have another 0.020)
A 10-32 tap hole is 5/32 on my little chart. That's 0.156" . That's going to be a bit close.
Looks like McMaster Carr has them down to #4. That would be a 3/32" tap hole. The thread has a .112" major diameter. That would give me a total of .048" between the outer wall and the top of the tapped area. If I split it 50/50 I'd have .024" on each side. That would work in steel. I'm not so sure it's going to work in plastic. If I move the hole in, the set screw may drag on the lead screw. If I move it out, I blow out the wall of the flange nut. Either way, there's not a lot left in the wall where I drill the hole. I'm depending on the root of the threaded area to hold things together. Even with another 0.010" on each side the walls are pretty thin.
You are also down to 1/2 to 1 lb of force on the spring portion of the set screw. That's way down from the 5 lb that the #10 could have provided. I'm very sure that I have at least a few pounds of down force from the weight of the moving mass on the nut. When the hot end is right by the drive screw, there's a significant percentage of the total mass hanging on one nut. The nut (obviously) un-loads as the hot end goes to over by another drive screw. It's not one to one between the external load and the set screw spring, but I don't think 0.5 lb will do it.
...... of course I may be missing something really obvious (again) :)-D
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A few more numbers:
The real OD of the barrel is 1.121 +/- 0.0005. The ID is 0.639 +/- 0.0005. The flange is 0.252" thick. The OD of the flange is 1.750 +0.001 / - 0.003. The barrel is 1.754 long. The end of the barrel is square.
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As a rough guess, I can get a 36" build height and an 18" build circle with my 5' screws and the base layout I posted previously. That's with a double nut approach and the 1+" thick build plate mounted above the mid plate. The ends of the nuts may / may not have to run through the plywood to accomplish that.
The outer wall of the barrel of the flange nut to the high point in the thread is ~ 0.160". That's going by what I can measure on one sample with a dial caliper. (you might have another 0.020)
A 10-32 tap hole is 5/32 on my little chart. That's 0.156" . That's going to be a bit close.
Looks like McMaster Carr has them down to #4. That would be a 3/32" tap hole. The thread has a .112" major diameter. That would give me a total of .048" between the outer wall and the top of the tapped area. If I split it 50/50 I'd have .024" on each side. That would work in steel. I'm not so sure it's going to work in plastic. If I move the hole in, the set screw may drag on the lead screw. If I move it out, I blow out the wall of the flange nut. Either way, there's not a lot left in the wall where I drill the hole. I'm depending on the root of the threaded area to hold things together. Even with another 0.010" on each side the walls are pretty thin.
You are also down to 1/2 to 1 lb of force on the spring portion of the set screw. That's way down from the 5 lb that the #10 could have provided. I'm very sure that I have at least a few pounds of down force from the weight of the moving mass on the nut. When the hot end is right by the drive screw, there's a significant percentage of the total mass hanging on one nut. The nut (obviously) un-loads as the hot end goes to over by another drive screw. It's not one to one between the external load and the set screw spring, but I don't think 0.5 lb will do it.
...... of course I may be missing something really obvious (again) :)-D
--------
A few more numbers:
The real OD of the barrel is 1.121 +/- 0.0005. The ID is 0.639 +/- 0.0005. The flange is 0.252" thick. The OD of the flange is 1.750 +0.001 / - 0.003. The barrel is 1.754 long. The end of the barrel is square.
------------
As a rough guess, I can get a 36" build height and an 18" build circle with my 5' screws and the base layout I posted previously. That's with a double nut approach and the 1+" thick build plate mounted above the mid plate. The ends of the nuts may / may not have to run through the plywood to accomplish that.